Calculating Quilt Binding: A Complete Guide
Binding a quilt brings everything together beautifully. However, figuring out how much binding you need can be tricky. From my experience, nothing is more frustrating than realizing mid-project that you’ve underestimated and don’t have enough binding to finish!
Using a quilt binding calculator correctly ensures you have exactly enough binding strips cut and ready to sew on neatly. No more surprises or emergency trips to the craft store. This complete guide to binding calculations has everything you need to determine yardage requirements with precision.
What Is Quilt Binding?
Before diving into the math, let’s review what quilt binding is and why it’s important:
- Binding encloses the raw edges of a quilt with fabric strips folded around the perimeter. This gives a smooth, finished look.
- Binding not only looks nice visually but also protects the quilt edges from wear over years of use.
- Typical binding width is 2 1β4β folded. Wider options like 4β can also frame a quilt beautifully.
- Binding strips are cut on the bias grain to allow stretching around curves and corners of any quilt shape.
So in short – donβt skip binding! This decorative trim takes your quilt from homemade to professional-level.
How Much Binding Do I Need?
The amount of binding needed depends on:
- The perimeter of your finished quilt size
- The width you want your binding strips cut
- Whether you’ll join the ends with straight strips or on the bias
Let’s break this down step-by-step so you can accurately determine yardage:
1. Measure Your Quilt Perimeter
Lay out your finished quilt top and measure all the way around the outer edges. Round up to the nearest 1β4 yard.
For example, if your measurements come to 87 1β2 inches, round up to 88 inches or 2 1β4 yards.
2. Choose Your Binding Width
The standard binding width is 2 1β4 inches, which finishes to 1β4 inch thickness visible from the front once folded over the quilt edges to the backside.
However, you can customize wider or narrower binding if desired. For example:
- Narrow binding: 2 inches cut, 1β8 inch finished thickness
- Wide binding: 4 inches cut, 1β2 inch finished thickness
Keep in mind – excessively wide binding can overwhelm smaller quilt projects. So consider finished quilt size as you decide.
3. Account for Binding Ends
When calculating, you’ll need to factor in extra inches for joining your binding ends.
There are two options:
A) Straight strips
If youβll join ends with straight strips sewn together at a 90 degree angle, allow 2-3 inches for seam allowance.
B) Mitered/Bias strips
For angled seam allowance and better flexibility around curves, use bias-cut joining strips instead. These need 4-6 inches extra.
Personally I prefer the look of bias binding finishes. But both methods secure the ends just fine if stitched correctly.
4. Use a Quilt Binding Calculator
Now simply input your numbers from steps 1-3 into a calculator tool to determine total yardage!
Here is one easy-to-use calculator I recommend:
[Link to quilt binding calculator]
Or you can always figure out the math yourself:
Quilt perimeter inches + seam allowance inches Γ· 40 inches per yard of fabric = Total yards needed
Round up yardage to the nearest 1β4 yard for cutting wiggle room.
For example:
88 inches perimeter
+ 2 inches straight seam allowance
= 90 inches
90 inches divided by 40 = 2.25 yards binding needed
Round up to 2 1β2 yards for straight strip cutting.
How to Cut Binding Strips
Most quilters cut 2 1β4 inch width of fabric (WOF) strips, then join them together end-to-end to make one very long binding strip. This avoids tons of small pieces.
An efficient way to cut multiple strips at once is to layer 4-6 WOF strips right sides up in a stack. Then subcut 2 1β4 inches strips across the stack with a rotary cutter.
Remember to cut strips on the bias for better stretch. To do this, position your fabric diamond-shaped rather than square.
Binding strips can be prepped well in advance so theyβre ready to sew on whenever your quilt top is complete!
Sewing Binding Strips Together
Take your time joining strips to avoid any hiccups down the road. Here are some key tips:
- Always stitch strips together at precise 90 degree angles if using straight seams. Line up the edges perfectly before sewing to keep binding even in width.
- Pin bias strip ends right sides together, offsetting the angles. Take care not to stretch or pull binding out of shape as you work.
- Trim seam allowance to 1β4 inch for smoother folding once wrapped around the quilt edges.
- Press all seams open or to one side. Open seams reduce bulk but can be trickier around corners.
How Much Binding for a Lap Quilt?
Lap quilts range quite a bit in size, but average about 50-60 inches square. That equals a 200-240 inch perimeter.
So for a 60 x 72 inch baby lap quilt with 2 1β4 inch straight cut binding, youβd need:
- 60 + 72 inches = 132 inch perimeter
- + 2 inches seam allowance
- = 134 inches divided by 40 = 3 1β4 yards
- Round up to 3 1β2 yards binding fabric
For a slightly larger 50 x 70 inch throw, also with 2 1β4 inch binding:
- 50 + 70 inches = 120 inch perimeter
- + 2 inches seam allowance
- = 122 inches divided by 40 = 3 yards (rounded from 2.9 yards)
As you can see, lap quilts need about 3 to 3 1β2 yards of binding fabric total.
Of course, every quilt is unique. So do your individual measurements, then allow a few inches extra to be safe. Too much is always better than running short!
Joining Binding Ends
As mentioned previously, you have options for finishing off the ends of your binding once attached around the quilt edges.
If precision counts (like entering a judged quilt show), bias binding with neatly mitered corners achieves the sharpest finish. But the technique does involve some tricky folds.
For everyday quilts, joining the ends with squared-off straight strips is easier to sew and still looks seamless done properly at a 90 degree angle.
Iβd suggest beginners start with the straight seam method. And donβt sweat small imperfections! Some minor puckering at the binding seam is common even among experienced quilters like myself.
Hereβs a quick look at both options:
Straight seam binding:
- Trim strip ends square, at 90 degree angles to edge
- Align ends precisely, right sides together
- Stitch together using 1β4 inch seam allowance
- Trim seam allowance to reduce bulk
- Press seam open or to one side
Mitered corner binding:
- Trim binding diagonally at a 45 degree angle to edge
- Mark a stitch line on each end 1β4 inch from edge
- With ends right sides together on quilt edge, stitch on marked lines to create a triangle point
- Trim seam allowance close to stitching line
- Press seam lightly toward smaller triangle
- Fold miter gently outward to make straight line across binding
- Pin in place and topstitch mitered corner angle securely
Whew, lots
Quilt Size | Binding Width | Total Binding Needed |
---|---|---|
Baby Quilt (30″ x 40″) | 1/4″ – 1/2″ | 14 – 16 feet |
Lap Quilt (48″ x 60″) | 1/2″ – 5/8″ | 22 – 26 feet |
Twin Quilt (66″ x 86″) | 5/8″ – 3/4″ | 38 – 44 feet |
Queen Quilt (88″ x 102″) | 3/4″ – 1″ | 56 – 70 feet |
King Quilt (106″ x 106″) | 1″ – 1 1/4″ | 76 – 86 feet |
FAQ
How do I calculate how much binding I need for my quilt?
To calculate how much binding you need, first measure the perimeter of your quilt in inches. Then, multiply this number by 2.5 to 3. This will give you the total inches of binding needed. Add 10-15% more as insurance to have extra binding available.
What width binding should I cut?
The most common binding widths are 2.5″ and 3″. I personally prefer 2.5″ binding as I find it gives a nice framed look. However, 3″ binding can look amazing on some quilts too, kind of like a picture frame. Basically, it’s personal preference – so do what makes your heart sing!
How do I join my binding strips together?
The easiest way is to sew the strips together on the diagonal, which prevents bulk. Place two strips perpendicular to each other, right sides together. Sew from corner to corner. Trim excess and press open. Voila, you’ve joined your binding!
Can I use a different fabric for the binding?
Absolutely! Using a contrasting print or color for the binding is a fantastic way to make your quilt pop. However, if you want the binding to blend in, use a fabric from the quilt. But honestly, I think contrast binding takes it up a notch. The possibilities are endless – go wild!
How do I attach the binding to my quilt?
There’s a few methods, but essentially you pin then sew the binding to the edges, mitering the corners. Leave about 15″ free. Hand stitch this last bit closed for a tidy finish. Using a walking foot helps feed all the layers evenly. Take it slow and you’ll get perfectly attached binding!