Formula for Calculating Mitered Borders on Your Quilts

Everything You Need to Know About Mitered Quilt Borders

If you’re wanting to add some elegant detailing to the edges of your quilt, mitered borders are a classic choice. As a longtime quilter, I’ve used mitered borders on many of my projects over the years. In this article, I’ll discuss everything you need to know to successfully sew mitered borders, from calculating measurements and cutting pieces to getting perfect miters. By the end, you’ll be well equipped to finish your quilt with professional-looking mitered edges.

Understanding What a Mitered Border Is

For those unfamiliar with the term, a “mitered” border refers to corners that are cut at a 45-degree angle to form a diagonal “V” shape when sewn. When properly executed, mitered borders result in edges that flow smoothly around the quilt without bumps or gaps at the corners. They give a quilt a polished, tailored look. While not a difficult technique, achieving perfectly even miters does require some precise measuring and sewing.

Calculating Border Width and Cutting Pieces

The first step is determining the width of your border strips. I like to add at least 2-4 inches to allow for trimming so the raw edges aren’t visible after quilting. You’ll also want to measure the finished perimeter of your quilt top and divide by 4 to calculate how many border strips you need. Cut them the desired width by the calculated length. Mark the center of each strip for reference when sewing.

Pinning and Sewing the First Border

To attach the first border, place right sides together and pin one strip to each side of the quilt, aligning the raw edges and marks. Sew using a 1/4″ seam. Press seams toward the border. Now comes the tricky part – sewing the corner miters!

Getting Perfect Miters

Accurately cutting miters takes practice but gets easier with time. Place the quilt right side up and a pinned border strip right side down, aligning raw edges. Fold the strip at a 45-degree angle so it wraps the corner and overlays about 1/4″ past the edge. Use a clear acrylic ruler and rotary cutter to trim the corner at the folded diagonal. Try to cut in one smooth motion for a neat result.

Once cut, unfold the strip and check that the mitered corner lines up with the edge seam. If not, carefully re-trim until perfect. Pin the corner with raw edges aligned and sew, backingstitching at the start and end. Press the seam toward the border.

Attaching Remaining Borders and Corners

Repeat these steps to attach the remaining borders to the sides and then the top and bottom. When joining miters at the corners, carefully pin the cut edges together before sewing for a seamless juncture. Take your time and double check the miters are perfectly symmetrical. Once all borders are sewn on, press all seams toward the borders.

Tidying and Finishing Borders

After sewing on the final border, take a close look at each miter. You may spot tiny “ears” of fabric poke out from over-enthusiastic cutting or sewing – just trim these off with small sharp scissors. Now’s also the time to carefully square up the quilt if any borders are a bit wavy. Finally, trim the border raw edges with pinking shears or a really small zigzag to prevent fraying. Your quilt is now complete and ready to display!

Common Mitering Mistakes to Avoid

We all make mistakes sometimes, so don’t fret if you run into issues. Here are a few of the most common mitering errors:

1. Failing to cut the corners at a precise 45-degree angle – this is key for crisp miters.
2. Not pinning before sewing corners together – this can cause lots of frustration!
3. Not backstitching at the start and end of miters – these crucial stitches hold the shape.
4. Trimming “ears” before double checking the miters fully meet – resist this temptation!

With practice, you’ll get so good at mitering that it will seem basically second nature. Trust your careful measuring and take it slow – perfect corners will be totally worth it, dude!

Some Final Tips

Here are a few more suggestions that have served me well over the years:

• Mark both long edges of border strips before cutting to keep straight of grain
• Use a clear acrylic ruler and sharp rotary blade for smooth, accurate cuts
• If struggling, practice mitering pieces of scrap fabric first until you get the hang of it
• Take breaks if you start to feel stressed – no miter is worth frustration!

Hope this helps provide you all the details needed for beautifully mitered quilt borders. With diligence and a wee bit of care, your finished quilt will look totally pro. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!

Mitered Quilt Border Formula

FAQ

1. What is the basic formula for mitered quilt borders?

   Basically, the formula is pretty simple. You take the measurement of your quilt top length plus twice the border width. So for example, if your quilt is 60 inches long and you want 2 inch borders, the length would be 60 + 2 + 2 = 64 inches.

2. Do I need to add extra length for curves or corners?

   At the same time, you’ll need to add a little extra length if your border has curves or mitered corners. Each 45 degree corner cut will result in the fabric stretching a bit. Most folks say to add about 1/4 inch per corner.

   

3. How do I figure out the width of border strips?

   To determine the width of your border strips, measure the quilt width and add twice the desired border width. So a 48 inch wide quilt with 2 inch borders would need strips cut 48 + 2 + 2 = 52 inches wide.

4. Will my corners fit properly with mitered cuts?

   You may be wondering – how can you be sure those mitered corners will fit just right? The key is to always add that extra 1/4 inch or so per corner cut. That little bit of extra fabric helps compensate for any stretching. Isn’t fabric kind of amazing?

5. Do I need to piece the borders?

   Longer borders may require piecing. If the fabric strip isn’t long enough, you’ll have to piece two or more shorter lengths together. Matching up the print can be tricky though. On the other hand, perfectly pieced borders aren’t always noticeable once the quilt is on the bed.

I hope this helps explain the basics of mitered quilt border math. Let me know if you have any other questions! Who knew figuring this stuff out could be so awesome?

But is getting those borders just right really worth all the trouble? Maybe it’s best to keep things simple. What do you think – should borders be perfectly mitered or is close enough good enough?