What is mitred corner quilt binding?

Basically, mitred corner quilt binding is when you trim the edges of a quilt at a 45 degree angle to join two strips of fabric together in the corners. This makes the binding lay flat all around the quilt with no bumps or twists in the corners.n

How do I cut the binding strips?

You’ll want to cut strips that are twice as wide as your preferred finished binding width plus a half-inch seam allowance. For example, if you want your finished binding to be 1/4 inch wide, you would cut 21⁄2 inch wide strips of binding material. Although it looks kind of intimidating, the angled cuts are sort of amusing when you get the hang of it.n

How do I sew the binding onto the quilt?

Start by sewing one end of the binding strip to the quilt, leaving an 8 inch “tail.” Then fold the binding in half lengthwise with the raw edges together and sew it onto the front edge of the quilt with a 1/4 inch seam. Stop 1/4 inch before the corner and backstitch. Then fold the binding strip up at a 45 degree angle and sew it to the adjacent side, with the angled corner forming a triangle.n

What’s the trick to getting sharp mitres?

On the other hand, the key to nice crisp mitres is to stop 1/4 inch from the corner, fold the binding strip up at a 45 degree angle, and then line up the raw edges before continuing. Trimming away excess fabric and ironing the mitre fold flat will help get a sharp point. You could also use a glue stick or binder clips to hold the mitre in place while you sew if you struggle to keep it aligned.n

How do I finish the binding?

To complete the binding, fold the raw edge underneath itself and hand-sew it down neatly on the back side of the quilt. Some quilters continue machine stitching around the perimeter while others prefer hand-sewing. I usually hand-sew the entire binding for a more handsome professional look. But there’s no wrong way as long as you get good coverage on the back!

Is hand-sewing the binding really necessary?

That’s a excellent question! While hand-sewing does give the backing a extremely polished look, machine stitching the whole way can work just as well basically. It may not be quite as neat, but on the other hand it will save you a ton of time. So in the end, go with whichever method you think suits your quilt best or fits your skills and patience level. There’s more than one way to skin a cat, as they say!n

How to Attach Mitred Corner Binding on a Quilt – An Easy Step-by-Step Guide

The Complete Guide to Adding Mitred Corner Binding to Your Quilt

Are you working on a quilt and wondering how to finish off those corners so they lie nice and flat? Mitred corners are the perfect solution to neatly wrap up your binding. In this article, I’ll walk you through the whole process from start to finish with tips from my own experience.

Understanding the Mitred Corner Technique

Basically, a mitred corner joins two pieces of fabric at a 45-degree angle to form a crisp edge without bulk. When you cut the binding strips on the bias, they have more stretch and can turn those corners without bunching up.

The key is to fold the binding in half lengthwise and, as you sew it to the front of the quilt, stop 1/4 inch before the corner. Then unfold the binding strip, forming a 45-degree angle, and overlap the folded edge across the corner before continuing on to the next side. Doesn’t that make sense?

Preparing Your Binding Strips

First, you’ll need to cut your binding strips. I usually cut mine 2 1/4 inches wide, which gives plenty of fabric to fold over the raw edges later on. Kind of eyeball the size – you can always trim excess after.

To join the strips, place two right sides together at a 90-degree angle and mark a diagonal line from corner to corner. Sew on the line and trim the excess fabric 1/4 inch beyond the stitching. This creates a mitered seam for the joins. Press seams open once complete.

Attaching the Binding

With right sides together, line up one short end of the first binding strip with the top edge of the quilt a few inches from the corner, leaving an 8-inch tail of binding.
Start sewing with a 1/4 inch seam, using stitch length about 2.5. Stop stitching 1/4 inch from the first corner.
Remove the quilt from the machine and fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle so it extends just past the corner of the quilt.
Fold the binding strip back down, even with the edge of the quilt, creating a 45-degree angle in the binding.

The folded edge will just cover the raw edge of the fabric corner. Starting 1/4 inch beyond the folded edge, begin sewing the seam again. Sort of pretend you’re wrapping a present!

Forming the Mitred Corners

Keep sewing around the quilt, repeating those mitred folds at each corner. Stop 1/4 inch before the next corner and repeat the folding process.

How to Attach Mitred Corner Binding on a Quilt – An Easy Step-by-Step Guide image 3

When you get back to your starting point, overlap that loose tail of binding with the starting folded edge. Trim excess binding even with the edges before finishing.

Now fold the binding to the back of the quilt and blind stitch the raw edges down by hand. I like to tie a knot in the thread end for security. Ta-da, your mitred corners are done!

Common Challenges and Fixes

We’ve all faced situations where those corners don’t want to cooperate. Here are a few things that can go wrong and how to remedy them:

– The diagonal fold isn’t quite lined up? Carefully snip and refold until it’s crisp.

– The fabric bunches up a bit? Try easing the corners in by pulling the binding taut as you sew.

– Seams don’t match up? Maybe slow down and make sure angles align before stitching each corner.

– Binding gaps or overlaps? Rip out that section and redo the fold more accurately.

How to Attach Mitred Corner Binding on a Quilt – An Easy Step-by-Step Guide image 2

With some practice, those corners will become second nature. You’ll be amazed at the professional finish mitred binding gives – it totally elevates homemade quilts!

Personalizing Your Corners

Once you’ve got the technique down, experiment with specialty stitches to add some flair and personality. You could:

– Topstitch around the binding edge 1/8 inch in for definition.

– Sew a graphic-inspired motif only on the corner binding pieces to complement your quilt design.

– Use an embellished flat-felled seam on the mitres.

– Echo quilt around the mitred shapes with free-motion quilting after binding is attached.

The options are endless! Get creative and make each quilt truly one-of-a-kind.

Final Thoughts

In summary, mitred corners are deceptively simple but can take some practice. The key elements are accurate cutting, perfect diagonal folds, and going slow around each point. If you hit a snag, don’t get frustrated – just rip it out and try again. With a little trial and error, you’ll be an expert binder in no time.

Of course, another handy tip is having an experienced quilting friend check your work. A fresh set of eyes can often spot issues. Maybe I could take a look if you get stuck! In any case, happy binding and thanks for reading. Let me know if you have any other quilting questions!

Mitred Corner Quilt Binding Tips

Binding Width	Notes
1/4 inch	Most common width, allows for easy folding and stitching
3/8 inch	Gives extra strength and stability
1/2 inch	Best for large quilts or those that will see heavy use
Starting Point	Begin binding 1/4 inch from raw edge at corner to allow for mitre
Miter Length	Cut binding at a 45 degree angle, aim for 1-1/2 inches in length

FAQ

What is mitred corner quilt binding?

Basically, mitred corner quilt binding is when you trim the edges of a quilt at a 45 degree angle to join two strips of fabric together in the corners. This makes the binding lay flat all around the quilt with no bumps or twists in the corners.
How do I cut the binding strips?

You’ll want to cut strips that are twice as wide as your preferred finished binding width plus a half-inch seam allowance. For example, if you want your finished binding to be 1/4 inch wide, you would cut 21⁄2 inch wide strips of binding material. Although it looks kind of intimidating, the angled cuts are sort of amusing when you get the hang of it.
How do I sew the binding onto the quilt?

Start by sewing one end of the binding strip to the quilt, leaving an 8 inch “tail.” Then fold the binding in half lengthwise with the raw edges together and sew it onto the front edge of the quilt with a 1/4 inch seam. Stop 1/4 inch before the corner and backstitch. Then fold the binding strip up at a 45 degree angle and sew it to the adjacent side, with the angled corner forming a triangle.
What’s the trick to getting sharp mitres?

On the other hand, the key to nice crisp mitres is to stop 1/4 inch from the corner, fold the binding strip up at a 45 degree angle, and then line up the raw edges before continuing. Trimming away excess fabric and ironing the mitre fold flat will help get a sharp point. You could also use a glue stick or binder clips to hold the mitre in place while you sew if you struggle to keep it aligned.
How do I finish the binding?

To complete the binding, fold the raw edge underneath itself and hand-sew it down neatly on the back side of the quilt. Some quilters continue machine stitching around the perimeter while others prefer hand-sewing. I usually hand-sew the entire binding for a more handsome professional look. But there’s no wrong way as long as you get good coverage on the back!
Is hand-sewing the binding really necessary?

That’s a excellent question! While hand-sewing does give the backing a extremely polished look, machine stitching the whole way can work just as well basically. It may not be quite as neat, but on the other hand it will save you a ton of time. So in the end, go with whichever method you think suits your quilt best or fits your skills and patience level. There’s more than one way to skin a cat, as they say!
Any tips for binding thick quilts?

If your quilt happens to be unusually puffy or thick, you might find that the binding blobs up on the front instead of lying flat. A few things you can try are: double-fold the bias tape to add stability, interface the bias tape with fusible fleece for rigidity, or trim away multiple layers of batting from behind the binding before sewing. Don’t fret – thick quilts can still look amazing with mitred binding with a few adjustments. You’ve got this!