How to Cut and Use Bias Strips for Sewing Projects

A Comprehensive Guide to Cutting and Using Bias Tape

If you’ve ever sewn a project that requires bias tape, such as binding the edges of a quilt or upholstering furniture, you may have questions about cutting and using this versatile sewing tool. In this guide, I’ll answer common questions around cutting bias strips from fabric, joining strips, and attaching bias tape to projects.

What is Bias Tape and Why Use It?

Bias tape, also called bias binding, is a long, narrow strip of fabric cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the fabric. Cutting the fabric strips on the bias, rather than straight or crossgrain, allows the tape to stretch and curve easily around corners and curves. This flexibility makes bias tape perfect for finishing raw edges on projects like quilts, pillows, and upholstery.

Compared to using a straight strip of fabric, bias tape results in a clean, professional finish that lies flat without buckling or puckering. The tape also helps prevent fraying on the edges of the project. Many sewers prefer using bias tape to other edge finishing techniques for these durability and aesthetic benefits.

How to Cut Bias Strips

To cut bias strips, first fold your fabric in half lengthwise and fold it in half again so you have 4 layers. Mark a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner with a washable fabric marker or chalk. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut 1-1/2 inch wide strips along the marked line.

For long strips, cut multiple angled pieces and sew them end to end with a 1/4 inch seam. To prevent bulk, trim the seam allowance to 1/8 inch after sewing. Continue cutting and joining strips until you have the desired length of bias tape.

Joining Bias Strips

Many projects require more length of bias tape than you can cut from a single piece of fabric. The key to joining strips smoothly is using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and pressing the seams open flat rather than to one side.

1. Place two strip ends right sides together and pin.
2. Sew the strips together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
3. Press the seam flat using an iron and steam.

Trimming the seam down to 1/8 inch after pressing helps the joint lay flat without bulkiness. Taking care with the 1/4 inch seam and pressing is important for tidy, flexible bias tape.

Attaching Bias Tape

There are two primary methods for attaching bias tape – the wrapped edge method and the blind stitch method. For a wrapped edge finish, you’ll wrap the bias tape around the raw edge and stitch it in place. The blind stitch method involves folding and stitching the tape to the back side of the project.

Wrapped Edge Method

1. Place the bias tape strip right side up and center it over the edge you want to cover.
2. Fold over the first 1/4 inch of the bias tape to the back side and press it in place.
3. Continue wrapping the bias tape around the edge, keeping the folded edge even with the project edge.
4. Stitch the bias tape in place close to the inner folded edge.

The wrapped edge provides a clean look with stitches hidden on the underside. It works well for edges that will be visible, like quilts. Make sure to pull the bias tape taut but not too tight as you wrap to avoid puckering.

Blind Stitch Method

1. Place the bias tape strip right side down against the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the raw edges.
2. Fold the tape in half lengthwise and press to crease.
3. Topstitch along the first folded edge through all layers of fabric and binding.

This method works nicely for finishing projects where the finished edge won’t be visible, like cushion covers. It results in an invisible stitch line. Adjust your topstitching tension so the stitches don’t show on the right side of the fabric.

Applying Bias Tape to Curves and Corners

To apply bias tape smoothly around curves and corners, you may need to ease the tape into place or notch the curves slightly with scissors. On sharp corners, miter the bias tape by cutting it at a 45 degree angle. Overlap the mitered ends and stitch them together.

From my experience, taking your time and easing the bias tape into gentle curves with short 1/8 inch stitches works best. Rushing can lead to unwanted gathers or puckers. With practice, you’ll be an ace at bias tape application!

Alternatives to Cutting Your Own Bias Tape

For some projects, it may be easier to purchase pre-made bias tape. Look for 100% cotton bias tape that matches your fabric in the notions section of fabric stores. You can also buy bias tape makers that quickly cut perfect strips using just a straightedge.

If you don’t have enough fabric for cutting bias strips, consider using a straight strip of a coordinating fabric instead. Just be wary of buckling on sharp curves. A lightweight fusible web sandwiched in the binding can also help it to lie flatter.

No matter which method you use, bias tape is a wonderful tool for any sewer’s arsenal. Take the time to practice on scraps until you feel comfortable working with it on your projects. Proper bias tape application results in beautiful, professional finishes you’ll be proud of for years to come! Let me know if you have any other bias binding questions.

I hope this guide has answered all your questions about cutting and using bias tape. Please feel free to reach out if you need any clarification or have additional queries. Happy sewing!

Factors for Cutting Bias Strips

FAQ

1. How do I cut bias strips?

   Basically, there are sort of a few different ways to cut bias strips. You can use a rotary cutter and mat to cut strips at a 45 degree angle to the selvage. This can take some practice to get nice even strips. Or another option is to fold the fabric in half with right sides together and cut strips along the folded edge. This method makes perfect matching pairs for binding.

2. How wide should bias strips be?

   For most projects, bias strips are cut 1-1/2 to 2 inches in width. Gosh, doesn’t that seem awful narrow to work with? However, wider strips won’t have the stretch and won’t mold around curves as nicely. On the other hand, too narrow and they might get tricky to handle. An 1-3/4 inch width is kind of a nice medium.

3. What type of fabric works best for bias strips?

   Fabrics that have some stretch and flexibility will make pleasant bias binding. Cottons, linens, and cotton/poly blends are usually pretty good choices. Heavyweight wools or dense fabrics may not be as agreeable to work with and could break needles. But perhaps with practice any fabric may work with enough patience and careful stitching! Does anyone have experience using tricky stiffer fabrics?

4. Should I pre-wash bias strips before using them?

   It’s often recommended to pre-wash bias strips before using them in a project. This prevents any shrinkage surprises later. Although I’ve been lazy before and not washed, and it worked out okay. Honestly I’m not sure it’s totally necessary for some fabrics. What do you think – is pre-washing bias strips worth it or not really needed?

   

5. What’s the best way to store bias strips?

   To keep bias strips neat and manageable before using them, you can coil them into rolls. Label each roll with the fabric details in case you make a bunch at once. You can also fold them accordion-style and stash in a zip bag or bin. Another option is to sewing them into loops and label the loops – I found this worked well for me! However you store them, just be sure they’re protected from dust.

6. Any tips for working with bias strips?

   Go slow and don’t rush your stitching is a good tip when using bias strips. The stretchy strips can surprise you and stretch or shift as you sew. Leaving long thread tails when you start and stopping with the needle down securely in the fabric helps prevent gaps. Amazingly using dental floss or thread conditioner on the thread can help too for a smooth glide! Does anyone have other clever bias strip secrets to share?