How to Cut Perfectly Straight Bias Strips of Fabric for Sewing Projects

A Comprehensive Guide to Cutting Bias Strips of Fabric

Whether you’re looking to add an accent trim to a sewing project or create bias tape to finish raw edges, cutting bias strips is a fundamental fabric crafting technique. In this article, I’ll cover all the basics of cutting strips on the bias grain as well as tips and tricks from my experience to help you get professional results.

Why Cut on the Bias?

Cutting fabric strips at a 45 degree angle to the straight grain, known as cutting on the “bias,” yields strips with stretch and drape. This is because the fibers that make up the fabric are cut at an angle rather than straight across. Strips cut on the bias have more give and flexibility compared to strips cut straight of grain or on the crossgrain. This makes bias strips perfect for applications where you want the fabric to hug curves without bunching.

Some common uses for bias strips include:

• Bias tape for finishing raw edges and seams on curved or fitted areas like necklines, armholes, and waistbands
• Facings and liner fabrics for necklines, collars, and waistbands where you want an interior facing to follow the shape
• Drawstrings and elastic casings for things like pouches, pillows, and robes
• Accent binding and decorative trim

How Wide Should Bias Strips Be?

The appropriate width for bias strips will depend on their intended use. As a general guide:

1. Bias tape for finishing raw edges is typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide.
2. Wider bias strips ranging from 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches work well for projects like bindings, facings, and trim accents.
3. Elastic or drawstring casings usually require 1/2 to 1 inch wide strips.

You can of course customize the widths as needed for your specific project. Narrower strips are more delicate while wider strips provide more coverage.

Cutting Bias Strips by Hand

While rotary cutters and bias tape makers make the job easier, it’s possible to cut bias strips manually for small projects or if you don’t have specialized tools. Here are the basic steps:

1. Place the fabric right side up on a cutting surface and smooth it out without wrinkles.
2. Find the straight of grain by matching the fabric design or pulling a thread straight across. Mark it with a pin or chalk line.
3. Measure and mark 45 degree angles perpendicular to the straight of grain, usually using a clear acrylic ruler and marking the 1/4″ or 1/2″ seam allowance lines.
4. Cut along the marked lines with sharp scissors, pivoting the fabric as needed for smooth cuts.

The key is to maintain the 45 degree angle as you cut. Going slow and taking your time leads to neatly cut strips. Try not to stretch the fabric as you cut for best results.

Making Bias Strips With a Rotary Cutter

If you have a rotary cutter, cutting bias strips is substantially faster and easier on the hands. Here’s the rotary cutter method:

1. Place fabric right side up on a rotary cutting mat and smooth it out.
2. Find the straight of grain and mark it as before.
3. Attach a clear acrylic ruler to align it at a 45 degree angle to the straight of grain mark.
4. Secure the edges of the fabric with fabric grips or pins as needed.
5. Carefully cut along the ruler edge using the rotary cutter to slice bias strips to the desired width in one pass.

The rotary cutter allows you to cut straight and consistently. Go slow and let the blade do the work for neat, even strips every time.

Using a Bias Tape Maker

For large volumes of bias tape, a bias tape maker is the way to go. Most models allow you to secure the fabric right side up between two rollers. You simply roll the handle to slice bias strips automatically to a consistent, finished width perfect for use as binding.

Bias tape makers come in a variety of sizes to suit different widths. They practically do all the work for you. Just be sure to slice off the ragged selvedge edges for a clean finished look.

Tips for Perfect Bias Strips

Here are some additional tips I’ve picked up along the way to get bias strips cutting like a pro:

• Starching the fabric first results in crisper, straighter cuts and prevents raveling.
• For long, uninterrupted strips, join pieces of fabric by butting the selvedges together before cutting.
• Place weights like books on fabric edges as you cut to prevent shifting.
• Consider preshrinking washable fabrics to avoid bias strips stretching out of shape.
• Cut strips going both left-to-right and right-to-left for double the yield.

From my experience, taking time with fabric grain lines and tool technique pays off in beautiful bias strips. Does this help explain the basics? Let me know if you have any other questions!

Fabric Bias Strips Cutting Guide

FAQ

1. How long should bias strips be cut?

   Bias strips can differ in size. For beginners, cutting 1 to 2 inch wide strips is a sensible choice. However, more advanced sewers may want narrower or wider strips depending on their project. The most important thing is to cut the bias strips long enough for your needs.

2. Do bias strips have to be cut on the true bias?

   Basically, bias strips work best when cut at a 45 degree angle to the straight of grain. This is called the true bias. Still, strips cut at say 50 degrees will get the job done if you’re in a rush. The fabric will have some stretch either way. Just don’t cut directly into or against the grain, or your strips may pill or buckle during sewing.

   

3. Can I reuse bias strips?

   In most cases, yes – you can reuse bias strips. Kind of like getting two projects for the price of one! Before using them again though, give the strips a good press to get out any creases. Also check for frays and trim if needed. With some care, bias strips can be reused several times before getting too short. On the other hand, really thin or delicate strips may not hold up to multiple projects.

4. How do I prevent bias strips from stretching?

   To avoid bias strips stretching out of shape, anchor the ends as you work. You can pin them in place or use small bits of masking tape. Another method is to baste the strips down temporarily with thread before securing them permanently. Working slowly and gently also helps. And perhaps the most important tip – don’t tug or pull on bias strips more than needed! With a light touch, they should stay right where you put them.

5. What can I do with extra bias strips?

   Lots of creative possibilities come to mind for leftovers! Small strips make amazing accent pieces for garments or quilts. You could also try weaving them into washcloths. Maybe mini potholders would utilize those itsy bitsy scraps? I’ve seen bias tape rolled into tight balls for quick sewing repairs too. The options are staggering! So have fun experimenting with your extras rather than tossing them out. Who knows, they may inspire your next stunning project!

Is there an easier way than cutting strips by hand?

Believe it or not, some folks actually cut bias strips using a rotary cutter and quilting ruler! If you have sharp blades and steady hands, that may work better for you than scissors. It allows for speedier cutting of long bias strips. However, at the same time, there’s a greater risk of sliding off the true bias or getting crooked cuts. So perhaps scissors are the safer choice for beginners. In the end, use whatever method feels most comfortable – whether that’s by hand or using cutting tools. As long as the job gets done, that’s basically all that matters.