How to Cut Quilt Binding strips on the Bias for Perfect Corners -Tutorial

The Complete Guide to Cutting Binding on the Bias

Cutting binding strips on the bias can seem intimidating if you’ve never done it before. But with the right techniques, it’s actually quite simple. In this article, I’ll cover all the basics of bias binding and provide step-by-step instructions to help you cut perfect strips every time.

Understanding Bias Grain

To cut binding on the bias properly, you first need to understand fabric grain. Regular straight grain runs parallel to the selvedge edges. Crossgrain runs perpendicular to that. But bias grain runs at a 45-degree angle to both. This diagonal stretchiness is what makes bias binding mitered corners lay so flat.

From my experience, it’s easiest to think of bias as being anywhere that isn’t straight or crossgrain. Basically, if you hold the fabric up to the light and it looks diagonal-like, you’ve got bias!

Equipment Needed

1. Fabric – You’ll need 1 1/2 times the yardage of your project’s perimeter if cutting 2 1/4″ bias strips.
2. Ruler – A clear acrylic ruler is best for marking binding cuts on the bias.
3. Rotary cutter and mat – A sharp blade is crucial for clean bias cuts.
4. Pins – For holding bias strips together before sewing.

That’s the basic gear. I also find an acrylic angle ruler handy sometimes to double check my bias strips are truly cutting at 45 degrees.

Marking the Bias

Here’s where it gets tricky:

1. On fabric wrong side, find a straight grain line (selvedge or crossgrain).
2. Use a ruler to draw a line at a 45-degree angle from that straight line.
3. Repeat creating parallel 45-degree lines across width of fabric.

The key is keeping those lines perfectly parallel as you go. I’ve found it basically sort of kind of helps to walk the ruler back and forth, re-checking the angle constantly.

Now you have bias grain guides marked perfectly at 45 degrees to cut your binding strips along.

Cutting the Binding Strips

Use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut strips of the specified width along those marked bias lines. For standard double-folded binding, 2 1/4″ strips work well.

I promise it gets easier with practice! The first few cuts may seem wonky, but before long you’ll be cutting gorgeous bias strips like a pro. It just takes some getting used to that diagonal slice.

Also, save all your bias cut strips until you’ve cut all you need. Occasionally re-measure the angle to check for drift as you cut long lengths of binding.

Joining the Strips

Now comes an amazing trick – joining bias strips without mitered seams!

Simply place right sides together at a slight angle, as shown. The bias edges will automatically marry up perfectly. Pin in place.

Sew with a 1/4″ seam. Finger press seams to one side as you go. Continue adding strips until you have the required total length. Amazing how well it works, right?!

Preparing the Binding

Once all strips are sewn, press the entire long binding strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Now you have double-folded binding ready to attach.

The last step is to pin or baste the binding to the raw edge of the quilt, adjusting the fold so it extends past the front just beyond the point where it will wrap around.

Finally, you’re ready to stitch it on! Sew binding to front with a 1/4″ seam, mitering corners as you go. Fold binding to back, slipstitch in place. Ta-da, a beautifully mitered bias bound quilt!

Alternatives to Consider

Admittedly, cutting and sewing binding on the true bias does take some practice. If you’re a beginner or in a hurry, here are some easier options to try:

1. Cut strips on the crossgrain instead of bias – it won’t miter as nicely but is much simpler to cut.
2. Buy pre-packaged bias tape – no cutting or joining needed. Just beware commercial bias tapes often use lower quality blends.
3. Have a quilting shop or friend cut the binding for you until you feel ready.

No shame if bias binding intimidates you at first! But hopefully now you feel equipped to give it a try with these techniques. Let me know if you have any other questions! I’d be happy to help further.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even experienced quilters hit snags sometimes. Here are a few issues you may face and how to fix them:

Edges don’t match up when joining strips: Slow down and re-check your angle is truly 45 degrees. A degree or two off throws it off.

Binding seems too short: Double check your yardage calculation and re-measure your project perimeter. Mistakes happen.

Corners don’t miter smoothly: Press seams well before mitering. Go slowly and don’t force the fold – ease into position.

Ripples form along binding: Binding may be too narrow for project. Widen strips 1/4″ or use binding tape.

With practice, you’ll gain that subtle bias-binding intuition. But reaching out for help is cool – none of us are perfect! You’ve got this.

Does this help explain everything you need to successfully cut and attach bias binding? Let me know if any part is still confusing or if you have additional questions!

Tips for Cutting Quilt Binding on the Bias

FAQ

1. What is bias tape and why do I need it for quilt binding?

   Bias tape, or bias binding, is a strip of fabric cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain. This causes the fabric to stretch and curve easily. Quilt binding is attached all the way around the edge of the quilt, so bias binding is necessary since it will easily wrap around corners and curves without puckering or pulling.

2. How wide should bias tape be for quilt binding?

   Bias tape for quilt binding typically ranges between 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide. Wider bias tape around 1/2 inch works well for covering the raw edges of quilts. Nevertheless, very thin or narrow bias tape under 1/4 inch wide may not provide enough coverage and could come loose more easily over time.

3. What is the best way to cut bias tape?

   Many quilters cut their own bias tape strips to ensure an accurate width. You can cut straight strips on the crossgrain, then trim the edges diagonally to create bias. However, using a bias tape maker or heavy-duty rotary cutter and ruler on the bias may be easier and faster. Just be cautious not to slip.

4. How do I attach the bias binding to the quilt?

   Basically, you pin or baste the bias tape to the front side of the quilt, rough edges even. Then fold the tape to the backside and stitch it down. When you sew the binding, leave long thread tails and backstitch at the beginning and end. Or maybe try using binding clips which may be faster than pins.

5. How do I join the ends of the bias tape?

   To join two ends of bias tape, place them right sides together and sew across the diagonal ends with a 1/4″ seam. Then trim the seam allowances to 1/4″ and press it open. Some quilters also suggest sealing the raw edges with fabric glue for extra security. I guess the hope is that it basically won’t come undone!

6. How do I finish the binding corners?

   When you get to a corner, stop sewing 1/4″ from the edge and lift your presser foot. Then fold the binding strip up at a right angle. Crease the fold firmly, unfold, then fold the strip down. Sew the corner seam and continue stitching the rest of the binding. On the other hand, you could stitch, fold and sew as one continuous motion. Both methods work, so take your pick!

7. What’s the trick for hiding the raw edges of the binding?

   After attaching all the binding, fold it to the backside of the quilt and hand stitch it down. This covers the raw edges and reinforces the stitches. Using a needle, thread, and small tight invisible stitches is key. I suppose practice makes perfect – it takes some folks hours to get the hang of it!