A Comprehensive Guide to Adding Mitered Corner Binding to Your Quilt
If you’ve been quilting for any period of time, you’ve likely come across the task of attaching binding to finish off your quilt. While straight-grain binding is simple, mitered corner binding can seem daunting at first. In this article, I’ll cover all the basics as well as some tips and tricks I’ve picked up over the years to help you successfully miter those corners.
Why Use Mitered Corners?
The main benefit of mitering the corners is that it creates a cleaner, flatter finish without bulk. With straight-grain binding, you end up with extra fabric at each internal corner that can puff out over time. Mitered corners eliminate that issue.
Aesthetically, mitered binding also makes the quilt look more polished and professional. The corners align perfectly instead of having an abrupt change in grain direction. It’s a nice subtle detail that elevates the overall look of your quilt.
Preparing the Binding
The first step is cutting your binding strips. For most domestic machines, 2 1/2 inches is a good width. You’ll want to cut strips that are twice the length of the longest side of your quilt plus 12 inches.
Join the strips with diagonal seams to make one long binding strip. Press the seams open to reduce bulk. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch if desired.
Marking the Quilt Back
Use a quilting ruler and fabric marking pencil to draw two diagonal lines extending out from each internal corner of the quilt back. The lines should extend about 6-8 inches past the corner point. This will serve as your guideline for trimming the miters later.
Attaching the Binding
Starting at any corner, place the raw edge of the binding against the edge of the quilt front with rights sides together. Leave a 6-inch tail at the beginning. Pin and stitch the binding to the quilt using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Stop stitching 1/4 inch from the first corner and backstitch. Lift the presser foot and needle. Rotate the quilt one-quarter turn.
Forming the Mitered Corner
To form the miters, fold the binding strip back on itself and then fold it forward again along the diagonal line. The folded edge of the binding strip will overlay the next side of the quilt at a 45 degree angle.
Repin the folded binding strip into place and then continue sewing down the edge 1/4 inch from the folded corner. Backstitch when finished. Repeat on all corners in the same manner.
Finishing the Binding
Once the binding is completely sewn to the front side of the quilt, turn it over and fold the raw edges of the binding behind to the quilt back using the diagonal lines as a guide. The folded edge should align with the raw quilt edges.
Pin or baste the folded binding in place along the folded diagonal lines for crisp mitered corners. Either hand-stitch the folded binding down with a needle and thread or topstitch it in place close to the folded edge using an open-toe foot or walking foot.
Common Problems and Solutions
The most common issue encountered is the binding not folding at quite a perfect 45 degree angle. If it’s slightly off, don’t sweat it – no one will notice but you! Just tweak the fold as needed.
It’s also easy to accidentally stretch the fabric when folding or pinning the mitered corners. Take your time handling the binding gently to avoid distortions.
If stitching around tight inner corners is difficult, shorten your stitch length temporarily or use a stretch stitch setting on your machine.
Finally, practice makes perfect! Make some sample bindings with scrap fabric before attaching to your actual quilt. You’ll get the method down with experience.
Tips and Tricks
Here are some additional tips I’ve picked up over the years:
- Use a clear acrylic ruler specifically made for quilting to ensure perfectly aligned 45 degree folds.
- Clip the seam allowance from the diagonal fold lines for a flatter finish. This prevents congestion at the corners.
- Leave a slightly longer tail of excess binding at each corner for ease of folding and maneuvering. Trim off excess after securing.
- Apply a thin line of glue stick along the mitered diagonal folds before pinning to keep layers perfectly aligned while sewing.
With some practice, mitered bindings will become second nature. Be patient with yourself as you learn – no two will ever turn out exactly the same. But focus on getting those lines lined up neatly and your quilts will have beautiful professional-level finishes.
I hope these tips have helped improve your understanding and demystified the mitered corner binding process. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Mitered Corner Quilt Binding Tips
Technique | Details |
---|---|
Corner Miter Cut | Cut each corner binding strip at a 45° angle to lay flat |
Double Fold Binding | Fold binding strip in half lengthwise and press before attaching to quilt |
Stitch Diagonally | Sew across the mitered corner at a 45° angle 1/4″ from cut edge |
Fold and Press | Fold binding to back, lining up raw edges and hiding stitching |
Pin In Place | Secure binding with pins as you work your way around the quilt |
FAQ
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What is miter corner quilt binding?
Miter corner quilt binding basically connects the sides of a quilt with corners that are cut at a 45-degree angle. This helps to make the binding lie flatter at the corners for a nicer finish.
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How do you attach the binding to the quilt?
To connect the binding, you first sew it to the front of the quilt using a 1/4 inch seam. Basically, you start in the middle of one side and work your way around the edges to the starting point. Then you fold the binding over the raw edges to the back and stitch it down.
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What’s the secret to getting nice mitered corners?
One key is to stop 1/4 inch before the corner and backstitch. After folding the binding straight up and down, you fold it at a 45-degree angle to the adjacent side. It takes some practice, but eventually you’ll nail those stunning mitered corners.
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How do I get perfect diagonal fold lines?
Use a clear ruler or acrylic template to measure and draw fold lines for the mitered corners on the binding. Place it point-to-point at a 45 degree angle and run an eraseable fabric marker along the ruler edge. Supposedly this helps the binding lie flatter in the corners. You could also try using visible sewing thread if the marker lines seem iffy.
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What if my corners are a bit wonky?
Don’t fret – imperfect corners are absolutely fine for home quilts. As the quote says, “quilts are meant to be loved, not perfect.” With some practice, your mitering skills will improve over time. For now, just focus on making your quilts with care, creativity and lots of love. That’s basically what matters most.
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Any tips for making mitered binding easier?
You might look for binding aids or templates that help you cut and fold the binding strips precisely. Some quilters also use glue sticks on the diagonal folds to help them hold their shape better when stitching. On the other hand, don’t forget that part of the enjoyment is in figuring things out yourself through trial and error. With some experimenting, you’ll come up with your own methods that work well for you.
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Do I really need to miter the corners?
Not necessarily. As an alternative, you could simply butt the binding strips together at inside corners for a fast finish. While arguably less polished, it gets the job done. In the end, choosing mitered or butted corners is up to you and depends on your preferred look. As long as you show your love through sewing, that’s what matters most.