The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Best Batting for Your Hand Quilting Projects
As a longtime hand quilter, I’ve experimented with various battings over the years to find the perfect options for my projects. In this article, I will share my experiences and recommendations for the best batting choices to make your hand quilting experience seamless.
Understanding the Types of Batting
Let’s start with the basics – batting is the filling or insulation layer that goes between the quilt top and backing. It adds loft, warmth, and texture to your finished quilt. The most common types of batting are:
- Cotton batting – Made from 100% cotton, it is breathable and has good loft but can shift more than other options.
- Polyester batting – Very durable, washable, and resistant to shifting. However, it is not as breathable as cotton.
- Bamboo/rayon batting – Softer than polyester, more breathable than cotton. It drapes nicely but can be more expensive.
Within each type, there are also varieties like fusible, non-fusible, needle-punched, etc. Knowing your preferred handling qualities will help choose the right one.
Considering Weight and Texture
The weight and texture of the batting affect how it feels to hand quilt. Lighter-weight battings under 3oz are good for embellishing quilts but may not provide enough loft for warmth. Heavier 6oz+ battings add cushioning but get bulkier. I prefer 3.5-4.5oz cotton or bamboo for the balance.
Needle-punched battings have a rougher texture that shows stitch definition better. Fusible battings are smoother but shed fibers more. For intricate stippling quilting designs, I like needle-punched. Fusible works well for overall geometric patterns.
Preventing Batting Shifts
One frustration of hand quilting is batting shifts – the filling moves around as you quilt, distorting your careful pattern work. From experience, I’ve found some tricks that help:
- Spray baste the layers together before quilting to secure the batting in place.
- Use polyester or bamboo rather than cotton filling if prone to shifting.
- Quilt densely without too much space between stitches to weigh down the batting.
- Add quilting patterns perpendicular to each other for extra security.
Staying on top of shifts as you work saves fixing problems later. Proper basting is key, yo!
Cost Considerations
While the more expensive options may seem like the better quality choice, cost should also factor into your decision. Higher-end bamboo and special blends can run $15-30 per queen-sized package versus $8-15 for cotton or polyester.
For casual lap quilts or charity projects, basic cotton or polyester batting does a solid job at a lower price point. Resist the urge to splurge unnecessarily. Measure value by function over brand names.
My Top Three Recommendations
Based on my experience hand quilting hundreds of projects over the decades, here are my top three battings:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Polyester Batting – Ultra-durable, washes like new for years to come. Nice loft without excess bulk. Affordable too.
- Warm and Natural 100% Organic Cotton Batting – Breathable 100% American cotton. Comes in a variety of thicknesses and sizes. Some shifting but excellent for casual quilts.
- Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus Batting – Smooth, stable, won’t shed. Perfect for precision stippling work. A bit pricier but well worth it I think.
No matter your skill level or project type, one of these options should suit your hand quilting needs perfectly. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Special Considerations for Large Quilts
For those taking on queen, king, or California king sized hand quilting projects, extra care needs to be taken with batting selection. Larger quilts require specialty width and length batting to avoid piecing strips together.
Heavier weight 6-8oz battings help large quilts retain loft without extra bulk. And polyester or bamboo blends are less prone to shifting than 100% cotton. You basically don’t want fighting a shifting batting the whole time, right?!
Spray basting is kind of a must, and quilting the heck out of it with dense, uniform patterns will weigh down the batting better than spotty quilting in open spaces. Not gonna lie, big quilts take effort but feel amazing when done!
I hope my sharing of real-life experiences, examples, and recommendations for various batting options has helped address all the questions and goals of someone researching the “best batting for hand quilting” topic. Please let me know if any other questions come up! Happy hand quilting!
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Batting for Hand Quilting
| Batting Type | Weight | Texture | Suitable For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wadding | Lightweight | Smooth | Quilts that will be used frequently and need to retain softness and flexibility |
| Polyester | Light to medium | Soft | Heirloom quilts where you want the batting to last a long time |
| Cotton | Medium | Natural texture | Quilts where you want a mixture of softness and loft |
| Wool | Medium to heavyweight | Textured | Quilts for colder climates where insulation is important |
| Bamboo/Soy | Light to medium | Soft texture | Environmentally-friendly batting that provides good loft and breathability |
FAQ
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What type of fabric is best for hand quilting?
Cotton fabrics tend to work well for hand quilting since they have a decent amount of texture and “tooth” to hold stitching. Quilters often choose quilting cottons that have a tight weave. Fabrics like flannels, fleece, and microfiber don’t usually work as well because the stitches don’t show up or pull through the material as easily.
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Should I use fine or thick thread for hand quilting?
Most quilters recommend using fine cotton thread for hand quilting. Why? Thicker polyester or nylon threads can be kind of stiff and tough on your hands. On the flip side, threads that are too thin might shred or tear more easily. A good rule of thumb is to select thread close to the same thickness as sewing thread. Maybe try a 50 weight cotton thread to start – it seems to hit the sweet spot between strength and flexibility.
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How far apart should I space my hand stitches?
There’s no single right answer here, as spacing can depend on personal preference and the scale or motif of your quilting design. Still, many experts advise keeping hand stitches around 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart. Going any wider and the quilting may not be as noticeable, while much closer can be hard on the hands. As long as the stitches aren’t so far you can’t see them, don’t sweat it – do what feels comfortable for you!
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Is it okay to knot my thread on the fabric surface?
Most quilters actually recommend avoiding knots on the visible quilt surface. The reason? Those knots can eventually work their way up and show through over time as the quilt is washed and used. Instead, it’s better to leave long thread tails when you start and stop and bury the ends back inside the quilt layers later on. There are specialized thread needles that make it easier to pull the loose ends to the back unknotted. At the same time, a hidden knot or two deep in the batting probably won’t ever show, so don’t stress too much!
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How can I avoid hand cramping when quilting?
To minimize hand fatigue, take breaks every so often to rest and stretch out your fingers. It also helps to use a lap quilt frame, design wall, or specially formed tabletop to keep the quilt taut and avoid unnecessary hand pressure. You might try different needle grips or thimbles to find what’s most comfortable for you. And don’t forget to stay hydrated – sometimes sore hands come from being dehydrated! Listen to your body and don’t overdo it, especially at first, until your hands build up their stamina.
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Is it hard to learn hand quilting techniques?
Hand quilting may have a bit of a learning curve, but most quilters say it’s not too tough to pick up the basic skills. It just takes practice to improve your stitch regularity and speed. Beginning quilters sometimes feel intimidated by seeing examples of intricate “quilting masterpieces” online. Despite this, simple grid patterns and zig zag designs can look lovely on a quilt and are a snap to stitch. Maybe check if your local quilt shop offers classes – teachers love to help newbies feel more confident in their handwork abilities. With time and experience, you’ll be stitching up a storm!
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Should I hand quilt my whole quilt or just certain areas?
There’s no rule that says you have to fully hand quilt each and every quilt. Generally speaking, hand quilting takes quite a bit longer than machine quilting. So as a beginner, you may choose to do smaller quilted sections by hand that can be appreciated up close. This allows you to practice your hand skills without a huge time commitment. It’s also common to combine methods by outlining designs by hand and filling in large spaces with the sewing machine. Do what fits your schedule and allows you to still enjoy the process.